Rabbit Care
Not
So Bunny |
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Oh
Mum! - Just look at that beautiful rabbit Do you think I could possibly have it? The space that it takes isn't too much And we could buy for it, a wooden hutch. |
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At F.A.I.T.H.
we often hear this familiar request But the following advice we offer is best. |
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A
hutch is a must for its sleep and its shelter But it must have the space, to enjoy a good skelter. For this, it's essential to have a daytime run Where it can frolic, and enjoy some fun |
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If
it’s confined to just a hutch Its quality of life is not very much Just for a moment, put yourself in its place Being locked up, in a fairly small space Where you are unable to stand or sit up straight Your surroundings, I'm sure, you'd soon learn to hate. |
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So please,
if a rabbit you have as a pet Sue Porter |
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Rabbit Matters |
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Rabbits are often seen as a cheap pet to amuse children and not mess the house up. But if they are to be looked after properly they are not cheap. They need neutering and vaccinating. Their cages and runs need cleaning regularly, and they need a lot of looking after, which can't just be left to the children. |
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| They need a lot of handling if they are to be relaxed when being packed up. Rabbits can get protective about their hutch or run, especially during the breeding season which arrves in the warmer weather - the very time the children will be taking an interest in them again. |
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| Make sure that all its needs can be met, before you buy a rabbit as a children's pet. | ||||
| A rabbit can live up to 7 years old. Small breeds can live for 10 years. | ||||
| Sexual maturity is at about 12 weeks, and gestation 31 days. | ||||
Company |
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Keeping a rabbit alone in a hutch results in a bored and distressed pet. Two or more rabbits (provided they are neutered to stop fighting and breeding) will usually happily share their hutch and exercise run. A neutered male and neutered female tends to work best in the long term. Matching up an existing rabbit with a new companion can be done but seek advice from someone skilled in this field first. Guinea pigs do not usually make good hutch companions for rabbits: guinea
pigs need a variety of fresh fruit and vegetables daily whereas this volume
often causes diarrhoea in a rabbit; adult rabbits often harass guinea
pigs and cause them deep distress by repeatedly mounting, regardless of
the sex of either animal; fur plucking by both animals of each other can
also occur. |
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Setting
Up Home |
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| House Rabbits:
most neutered rabbits can be trained to use a litter tray and can make an
interesting inside pet, but they can be demanding and destructive so are
not suitable pets for everyone. |
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| Remember that even house rabbits must have access to the outside for them to stay healthy. | ||||
| Seek advice before deciding to keep house rabbits as you will need to bunny-proof your home and the equipment required is different from rabbits kept outside. | ||||
Housing |
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| Rabbits can be housed outside
all year round in a good quality weatherproof hutch with a separate draught-free
"sleeping area". Do
not be concerned if your rabbit decides to use this compartment as his
toilet area as this behaviour is quite common. A litter tray can be used
in the hutch in the corner where bunny usually chooses as his potty corner.
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| The hutch must be at least 6 inches off the ground and should he sited out of direct sunlight and draughts. | ||||
| Make sure that only bolts or padlocks are used for fastenings on both hutch and run to prevent access by foxes. | ||||
| Wire mesh used on hutches and runs should be of strong quality (preferably no chicken wire). | ||||
Bedding |
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| Use a deep layer of wood shavings
throughout the hutch, with a good layer of hay on top. If straw is used
it is essential that hay is provided also for the rabbits to eat. |
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Cleaning
Out |
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| Remove all soiled bedding daily,
spray the area with animal disinfectant and replace with fresh bedding,
thoroughly cleaning out the whole of the hutch at least twice a week. |
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Rabbit
Feed |
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| Be consistent with the type of dry food given and stick to it. Give sufficient quantity so that there is none left by the next day. Using a standard 5" diameter rabbit bowl, small breeds need a quarter to a third of a bowl daily (approximately 2 ozs.). Medium breeds such as lops and most other rabbits need half a bowl each (approximately 3 ozs) and large breeds such as French lops need 1-2 bowls each. | ||||
| Many domestic rabbits have a poor tolerance for fruit and vegetables, especially under the age of 12 weeks, so proceed with caution otherwise severe diarrhoea may occur with is usually fatal. | ||||
Start by offering tiny amounts of a variety of fruit/veg every other day and gradually build up the amounts over a period of weeks. Stop if the rabbit consistently has a dirty bottom or runny droppings which is resolved by withdrawing the fresh food. |
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| The commonest cause of dirty bottom / soft droppings is usually overfeeding of dry rabbit mix, and/or an intolerance of fresh food. Seek advice if this is a persistent problem. | ||||
| Never feed lettuce to a rabbit of any age. | ||||
| Rabbits should not be fed extras such as bread, toast, cake, crisps, sweets etc. | ||||
| Refill the water bottle daily, and add a large handful of fresh hay. It is essential for rabbits to have large quantities of fibre in their diet each day so you should ensure that your rabbits have access to fresh hay every day of the year. | ||||
Handling |
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| Contrary to popular belief, most adult rabbits don't enjoy being handled, although some will tolerate it better than others. | ||||
| This applies regardless of whether the rabbit is handled from a baby or not, and unfortunately the true nature of a rabbit is not fully apparent until about 6 months of age. | ||||
With this in mind, it is important to let your new pet settle in with as little handling as possible. Gradually build up his trust and confidence in you by talking quietly to him and gently stroking his head if he approaches you. |
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| When he has settled in, you can pick him up gently but firmly either by placing your hands around his middle. Aim to handle him once a day for a short time, although even this may be too much for certain individuals. | ||||
| Remember that most rabbits are naturally shy, quiet animals who hate being held above ground level. Gaining the trust of a rabbit takes time and effort. | ||||
Breeding |
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| There are thousands of unwanted rabbits taken in every year throughout the country by rescue centres, the large majority being ex-childrens' pets that have been discarded once the novelty has worn off. | ||||
| This being the case, it is irresponsible to generate yet more rabbits by indiscriminate breeding - you cannot assume that your local pet shop will take any excess stock nor can you rely on selling them via the local paper. | ||||
| Furthermore, malocclusion (overgrown teeth) is an inherited condition and it is very likely some of the babies will develop teeth problems later in life if you use rabbits with unknown history. | ||||
| Breeding will not cure a female rabbit of aggressive behaviour in the long term. | ||||
Neutering |
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| Both male and female rabbits can and should be neutered. Castration stops males spraying urine and decreases their mounting behaviour, whilst spaying females prevents them developing uterine and associated cancers which is very common in females over 4 years of age, and it also decreases nesting behaviour and aggression linked to the hormonal cycle. It is important that the operation is carried out by a vet who is confident with such procedures in rabbits and who undertakes such operations regularly, to lessen any anaesthetic risk. | ||||
Common
Problems |
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| Teeth - overgrown front teeth - mainly due to an inherited condition, but incorrect feeding can worsen this situation. The teeth will either have to be removed, or they will need to be trimmed every 3 weeks for the rest of the rabbits life. Must be attended to urgently. Usually apparent by 6 months, but can occur later. | ||||
| Teeth - overgrown back teeth - symptoms can include excessive dribbling (not always apparent), poor appetite, weight loss. This causes deep distress and pain and needs urgent attention. The rabbit will usually require an anaesthetic to clip back the teeth. | ||||
| Red urine - rarely serious if no other symptoms, usually due to food pigmentation. Check the water bottle is working, especially in winter when the water may become frozen in the spout. Seek advice if unsure as occasionally red urine may indicate a serious problem. | ||||
| Diarrhoea - potentially fatal, so seek advice immediately. For mild cases ie: soft but not runny droppings, withdraw all food except hay and water for 2-3 days until the droppings return to normal. See also section on feeding. | ||||
| Fly-strike - rabbits soiled with droppings or urine are at high risk from this condition. Flies lay their eggs around the tail area of the rabbit or any other area that is wet or dirty, and the resulting maggots eat into its flesh with very distressing and often fatal consequences. This is particularly common during the summer months, so check your rabbit daily. | ||||
| Dandruff / bare patches - often caused by a mite - Cheyletiella parasitivorax - resulting in skin irritation and requires treatment as soon as possible. The most effective treatment is a course of ivomec injections from your vet. | ||||
| Lump or scab on back of neck - find out if the rabbit has been recently vaccinated, as this is a common reaction to the injection. It normally heals on its own. | ||||
Vaccinations |
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| VHD - Viral Haemorrhagic Disease. It is vital that your rabbit is vaccinated annually against this disease as it a highly contagious condition, is easily spread, and there are often no symptoms to indicate anything is wrong. This disease is always fatal. | ||||
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| Myxomatosis. Your rabbit is at risk if you live in a rural or semi-rural area. The disease is spread by insects such as the rabbit flea (sometimes carried by cats and feral foxes) or mosquitoes. In areas where there is high incidence of myxomatosis it is advisable to vaccinate twice a year, otherwise an annual vaccination should be sufficient. | ||||
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REMEMBER...
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Don't
buy a rabbit on impulse |
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Don't
breed from your rabbit |
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Find
out the sex of your rabbit before keeping two together - ask your vet |
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Never
buy a rabbit as a gift for someone else |
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Rabbits
rarely make good pets for young children |
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Most
rabbits don't like being handled |
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Rabbits
can give very nasty scratches |
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Some
rabbits growl, bite, and spray urine at you |
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A
rabbit's hutch should be cleaned out daily |
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Cost
of annual vaccinations is usually over £20 |
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Rabbits
don't like guinea pigs |
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Rabbits
dig holes in your lawn and eat your plants |
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Children
usually get bored with a pet rabbit within a month |
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Rabbits
enjoy regular exercise so must be provided with a run |
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Rabbits
get bored easily and need stimulating toys - cardboard boxes, plastic
plant pots, kitchen tissue inner rolls, cat toys... |
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Baby
rabbits are not what they seem - you won't know their true nature for
good or bad until they're 6 months old, regardless of how or how often
they're handled |
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More information
on rabbits |
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